Buried under foam and insulation is still not a problem. “Dry” is the keyword hear when it comes to sealing up leaks with minimal effort. If temperatures are below freezing you will have to work quick to prevent water from freezing in the lines and pump.

Locate the leak while the tub is running which may take some time and clean the foam insulation about four inches back from the leaking joint on either side once it has been located. Remember there may be more than one leak.

Turn off all power at the main breaker in the basement. Drain the water down with a sump pump as low as possible and dry off the seating and floor area were you may be sitting while working. For this task, a “Shop Vac” vacuum which can have the hose placed in the inlet or outlet will be extremely beneficial.

Place the hose in the air discharge of the vacuum and insert it in where the water intake is on the hot tub. The face plate may have to be removed to gain access for this. If there is no were to facilitate the hookup of the hose on the intake, not too worry, it can be placed on a jet instead thus still accomplishing the same results.

The vacuum hose will have to be duct tapped into place as it will not be a perfect fit. Before turning on the vacuum to blow the lines dry, I might suggest you be standing on the outside of the tub so you don’t get soaked.

Turn on the vacuum and the water should begin to blow out of all openings that are water related. Continue to have the sump pump running in the foot hole as the lines do hold quite a bit of water. As the water is being reduced to a minor spray, duct tape or rubber plugs can be inserted in each jet until there is only one remaining open. Let the vacuum run for about 15 minutes to ensure the lines are reasonably dry.

Now for the fixing of the leak. As most Hot Tubs are now plumbed with flexible PVC, many of the leaks are created due to sagging of the plumbing when the foam is sprayed on or the joint was not cleaned properly.

Change the hose on the vacuum to the other port which sucks air in. Block off the last jet in what ever fashion you wish, duct tape is the quickest, thus creating a vacuum on the plumbing including where the leak is.

You will need proper Weld-On PVC primer which is usually purple in color. You will also require Weld-On #795 or equivalent PVC fast setting cement for our repair. Apply Weld-On primer liberally to the joint leak. The vacuum inside the pipe will draw it into the leaky joint. Repeat this process 3 or 4 times and allow primer to dry for a few minutes.

Have either a rubber or surgical glove on your hand ready for the next step. While the vacuum continues to run, apply a liberal coat of Weld-On #795 cement to the leaking area. Immediately take you finger with the glove on and force the glue into the joint. Repeat the process several times to ensure the cement has completely filled the gap. Allow to set for 30 minutes minimum to ensure curing of the joint. You can now remove the tape and plugs, install anything you had disassembled and refill the Hot Tub.

Cracks or splits in pipes in some cases can also be fixed but it is rare as there would be no support to hold the crack together. A gear clamp or hose clamp can be used as a support mechanism.

I have used this process many times and it works extremely well. Remember patients is a virtue. Here is a brief  Weld-On video. Please give me your fed back if this works for you.