Chemical adjustment is best done with the water heated so the chemicals added dissolve quickly and mix easier. Once the water is heated up to approximately 100 degrees F., its time to make adjustments one at a time and in a specific order.

When adding chemicals, add a little at a time. You can always add more if needed but is a waste if you over do it. First item of adjustment is the alkalinity. As mentioned in the definition of alkalinity ,  it is the resistance to change the ph. If the alkaline level is too high or low, the ph level will follow the same direction. If the alkalinity is kept within the recommended levels, you will find the ph will almost maintain itself.

The level of the alkalinity should be 100 ppm to 150 ppm. Some companies say go a little lower and some a little higher, but both my old customers and myself found these numbers to work quite well. Alkalinity booster comes in a powder form. While adding, turn on all the jets for about 5 minutes or so to reduce waiting time of mixing then check the level with an appropriate test kit.

I like the Taylor test kit because is gives me everything I need to know. If the alkaline is too high then liquid muriatic acid or ph minus (dry acid) can be used. Please use extreme caution and wear protective gloves and eye wear when using liquid muriatic acid or any chemicals for that fact. Read the safety labels carefully before using. You can purchase the liquid acid from either a local pool store or local hardware or one of our affiliates listed on my site.

Next item to be adjusted is the PH level. As mentioned in the PH definition the level we want to be within is 7.2 to 7.6. Why you ask? Ever swim in a public pool and your eyes burn or go pink and get itchy? Most public swimming pools use liquid chlorine and it has a ph value of 13. That’s brutal on the body, eyes and the equipment. The chemicals used to adjust this is called PH + or PH – (dry acid). Add a little at a time to make your adjustments. Pretty easy so far? I bet you ended up at 7.4 which is perfect.

 Next we are going to adjust the hardness. Hardness in quick terms is the resistance to foam. Too much hardness can cause scaling and not enough with cause that disgusting foam floating in the top of the water. Yes they do make chemicals to eliminate foam but that leaves a film on your body and plugs your filters.

We want to have the hardness level at around 200 ppm.  Not to hard and not to soft. One thing to keep in mind that if you over do the hardness, the only way to reduce it is to add fresh water. Calcium harness is in powder form and you should add it a closed fist amount at a time. Too much will cause severe cloudiness and take quite a while to clear up.

 Next, we need to choose a disinfectant. Chlorine or bromine? Decisions,  decisions. Let me see if I can help you out. Chlorine is the same as bleach just much stronger. Chlorine is much cheaper but bromine has a lot less fumes and less irritating to the eyes. Most tub owners tend to lean towards bromine and I have to agree. The bromine can be in the form of a 1” tablet or liquid form. Tablets are the simplest way when placed in a floating dispenser. Open the dispenser so approximately 3 pucks are exposed. You will have to check the bromine level the next morning as it will take a while for the bromine to dissolve.

 You are now done! You have to agree, that was not that bad. As a last fact, did you know that your body looses 1 to 2 pints of fluid in the hot tub at 100 deg.  F over the period of an hour? This is what throws off your water balance. I highly suggest a non-chlorinating shock powder to burn off the contaminants. Apply a little approx an hour or so before large use and after completing the use. Leave the lid off for approximately 15 minutes as the shock burns off the contaminants into a gas and they need to escape.